Week 9 – Edith Falls – Free Camps – Lake Argyle



We left Litchfield and headed south for Edith Falls. Edith Falls is 40km north of Katherine and is a National Park campground with no power or water. The site was a good one with plenty of morning sun for the solar panels and a private grassy lawn for sitting on.

The falls are about 150m away from the van so we changed and headed down for a swim. The pool at the base of the falls is very large, a good 100m swim to the falls themselves. The water was cool and refreshing, especially as it was the usual 32 degrees.


We had a chat with the ranger at the bridge near the falls. He told us how they trap the saltwater crocodiles that come in during the wet season and relocate them for the dry season. He also told us the names of the fish swimming under the bridge, including barramundi and archer fish.



 The next day we kitted up in our expensive hiking gear – swimmers, thongs and shirt - and headed off up the steep hill to get to the upper falls. The climb was very steep and Nanna was very hot so it was nice to arrive and find a beautiful waterfall with pools to swim in. We spent a good while swimming before walking back down the ring track.
 






In the arvo we went for another swim in the bottom pool and Pa flew the drone straight up from our campsite. You could see the upper and lower falls from the sky.


It was sad to leave Edith falls as it was quiet, full of nature and we could swim and get cool. However, we headed off towards Katherine to fill up with water and head west towards Western Australia. We spent that night at a free camp outside of Timber Creek. We were the only ones there and it was a nice spot.

 The road here passes through some inspiring country with the road following river valleys between very high, rugged ranges. The ranges were significant in that you could clearly see the layers of rock laid down over time for miles and miles, exactly level. This made it seem like they were banded mountains.

We crossed the border into Western Australia and they took all our fruit and vegies at the border. They do this to protect the WA fruit and veggie industry from diseases in the Eastern states.

We finally arrived at Lake Argyle and set up camp. The park is the only place to stay as it is so rugged here. They have an infinity pool here which overlooks the lake, but it is freezing. We had a swim though.

We went for a drive to the dam wall. This whole area was flooded by the building of the Ord River Dam in the 1960s to provide reliable water for the farming downstream. Up here they get metres of rain during the wet season, but not much at all for the six months of the dry season. This meant farming was inconsistent until they built the dam. The dam flooded many valleys around these majestic mountains and covers an area 21 times the size of Sydney Harbour. Lake Argyle is so big it is classed as an inland sea. There are estimated to be over 20000 crocodiles in the lake but they are all freshwater as the salties can’t get past the dam and need to get to saltwater to breed.



We went on a lunch cruise aboard the Kimberley Durack named after the man who devised the scheme for the dam. Unfortunately he died 2 years before the dam was finished. 

We learnt a lot about the lake and the neighbouring diamond mine while we were on the cruise. The diamond mine at one stage produced over 80% of the world's pink diamonds, the most sought after and rarest of diamonds. We pulled in to a small bay and fed the fish. Large catfish and sooty grunters came up to feed on the bread. Fishing here is great.

We then drove around the lake before stopping at a secluded beach for lunch. Before lunch we had a swim off the back of the boat. The water was fantastic. As was lunch, barbecued fish with cold meats and salads accompanied by beer and wine – heaven!


The next day we drove out to the Durack Museum. The original homestead was flooded by the lake and had to be moved, stone by stone, to higher ground.


We drove further to a lookout down a dirt track with spectacular views over the lake and mountains around it. They use this area as background in many ads on tv and even overseas.



We then drove up to the creek which is fed by the spillway from the dam. We found ourselves a deep spot and had a swim, with an eye out for crocs as we did so.





We went back and had another swim in the infinity pool as it was going to be the last swim for a while.
We head off for Kununurra tomorrow, then westward towards the surf!




Comments

  1. Great photos again. That drone is doing such a top job. Totally different perspective on the surrounds.
    The water always seems so clean and clear.
    What do you mean, " We found ourselves a deep spot and had a swim, with an eye out for crocs as we did so." Tell me you had up to date info that there were no crocs around.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They can never guarantee it’s croc free. They cover themselves with signs saying “low risk of crocs”. At the river it was pretty clear with individual waterholes separated by rapids.

      Delete

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